I must really want to go to Denmark, because I don’t sweat on purpose, and I have a very low tolerance for pain.
Yet I’m writing this post wearing compression socks, back and knee supports, and leaning on a heating pad. I’ve had a few doses of Advil and it’s only noon.
But yesterday I rode 25 miles.
The Challenge
When Lauren invited me to come along this summer, my biggest obstacle was the biking. I hadn’t been on two wheels in ten years. I told her to give me a day to decide, and went to the garage.
After trying unsuccessfully to inflate airless tires, I stuffed a heavy bike into the back of a Prius and drove to a bike shop where they blew spiders out of the way and filled the tires. I explained the trip and they laughed and said although the bike needed a tune-up and would squeak a lot, it was safe enough to ride and I shouldn’t leave it in the shop because that would cost me training time I clearly needed. Honesty is the best policy, right?
So I took my squeaking bike and creaking body to a trail near home called “Four Mile Creek.” I rode the whole thing, end to end, sweating and panting but confident that I’d ridden four miles. Nope. Apparently the Four Mile Creek greenway is only two miles long.


I had a lot of training to do. The date: April 2. Three months to do it.
Meanwhile, in Connecticut
Lauren bikes regularly, just for fun. As in, “It’s nice out, I think I’ll go for a bike ride” and twenty miles later she might stop for a drink of water. So our 30-ish mile a day itinerary is really not a big deal to her, and biking in Denmark is something she’s long wanted to do. In fact, she’s so sure she’ll do this again she even bought her own saddlebags (called panniers…apparently biking has its own language).

I’m renting the panniers, but I will not slow Lauren down.
Progress Report
It’s been 8 weeks since that first ride. I still don’t love sweating. But a few things are helping a lot:
Cheerleaders: If you’re reading this, you’re probably one of them. We’ve told a lot of people about this trip, and every one of them is rooting for us. Especially my colleagues, who put up with a bicycle parked in the office almost every day.
Expert Advice: Friends who bike have shared tips, from the best greenways to stretching techniques and something called “Butt Butter.” In particular, a former boss/now friend who bikes long distance A LOT has helped with all the things I’d never have thought about – he shared his very detailed packing list, showed me how to balance cargo, and even loaned me his panniers to practice riding with the weight of said cargo. So he’s also taught me to pack light! Also, the promise of riding with him in a few weeks is more motivating than he’ll ever realize.


Technology: Since we’re going to be documenting the trip, one of the first gadgets I purchased is a phone mount. We’ll likely use Lauren’s phone for GPS and mine for photos and video. So I’ve been testing angles and apps and it’s been a lot of fun! Also, when the ride is long and lonely, a podcast helps the time go by.
Excellent Greenways: Charlotte’s been working on its bike routes for a few years, and while the on-road lanes aren’t great, the off-road greenways are gorgeous and well-maintained. I’ve mostly been riding on the Little Sugar Creek greenway, which has wide, paved pathways and multiple entry points near work and home. And if the scenery here is this good, I can only imagine Denmark!





How’s it going? Well, I can pretty comfortably do 20 miles without a break. And Lauren says that’s about as far as we’ll need to go without a break.
Which is great news, because I clearly need Advil and a break after 25!
Back to Class
Lauren is back in the classroom – sharing Denmark’s rescue story with her students.
The Mystic Seaport – Preserving the Gerda III while Showcasing Her Amazing Story
Lauren here. This is my first post. Melanie was in charge of the blog while we were traveling together, and I am so thankful to her for all the work she put into it. This blog is such a great resource and holds all the information we gathered on our trip. Today I attended a…
Random Reflections
Some thoughts from the long trip home.
On Course
All roads led here, and it’s where we hoped to go.
“Second to None”
A story very few people knew until recently.
Right Place, Right Time
Being in the right place at the right time led to a perfect, personal story.
It’s Different Here (in Aarhus)
Aarhus through a historian’s eyes
We Made it Through the Rain
We pedal faster when we’re cold and wet!
Miles and The Extra Mile
Today we started our 2-day ride from Gilleleje to Aarhus. But first we took one more spin around Gilleleje. We set out to find the rest of the city’s plaques, but we found much more. Yesterday we visited the church’s sanctuary, but the attic where Jews were hidden and captured is only open on Thursdays,…
It’s Complicated
Collecting stories, memories, objects…and many many layers.
Reaching the Heart
For the last fifty miles, people have told us to go to Gilleje for the story…and now we’re here!
Talking to Strangers
Talk to strangers. The stranger, the better!
Make it Personal
Because stories are what make us care.
Context
Today was our first real day of study-tourism, and we started with some background. Jewish context We began the day at the Danish Jewish Museum. I’ve been admiring Danish architecture since we got here, and this one is no accident. It’s a mitzvah. The Hebrew word mitzvah means good deed, large or small. The museum,…
First Impressions
They say you only have one chance to make a first impression, and Copenhagen does not disappoint. It’s beautiful here! Even the SAS plane was gorgeous, flight attendants in crisp uniforms with pillbox hats throughout an 8 hour red eye. Everything is clean, and it works, and what a difference from the chaos and construction…
Worrying, Waiting and Wondering
Things were going too smoothly…
Packed
Or, how to bike for two weeks with three pairs of socks.
Better Together
The part of this trip I’m looking forward to the most is traveling with an old friend.
The Big Question
The millions of questions swirling in our brains all support one big question.
Testing Travel Tech
This might be a disaster, but it’s only a test and better to know now!
We Have a Map!
Planning this trip has been surprisingly easy, geographically speaking.
The Backstory
Pedal to the Past? What is that, anyway? Who’s doing all this pedaling and where are they going?


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