And as it turns out, we pedal much faster in a downpour!
We left Rorvig earlier than planned this morning, hoping to beat the rain…but you can’t outsmart the weather. About halfway through our 20 mile ride to the ferry to Aarhus, it started raining…first lightly, then steadily and when we got off the ferry and rode a few more miles to our hotel, thunderstorms.
Let’s just say a hot shower never felt so good.


The ride from Rorvig to the ferry in Sjaellands Odde is mostly farmland and small towns. We saw a lot of cows, sheep, wheat, horses, corn, raspberries…and windows in old buildings with stars of David in them.
That was unexpected! We are more than 100 miles from Copenhagen, where we’ve learned most Jewish life was centered. The buildings weren’t clustered, but they weren’t that far apart. And the windows were very visible from the road – we spotted them without really trying. Here are the ones we saw – look for the round windows near the peak of the roofs:





More than a coincidence, right? We’ll ask the rabbi about this on Friday, but for now we have two theories…which could both be wrong:
- We learned at the Jewish Museum in Copenhagen that Denmark’s earliest Jews met upstairs in private homes for services…maybe these were small home shuls?
- We also learned that young Zionists came to Denmark to learn agricultural techniques before going to Israel to settle and develop the land there. Israel, like this area of Denmark, is near the sea…could these be from that time?
Any other ideas? We’ll keep you posted!
The ferry to Aarhus was huge, and had a playground, full restaurant and coffee shop, lots of dogs and much more on board. We had a snack and appreciated being indoors. There was no view at all because it was raining so hard, but I’m sure it would have been great.




Compounding Complexities
In Aarhus this afternoon we met with a friend of a museum colleague who thinks critically about the larger context of history as it’s popularly told. She doesn’t form opinions lightly, but relies on data and thorough research. She was reluctant to suggest answers because she hasn’t done that research on the events of 1943 but the conversation introduced a lot of fascinating new questions!
Among other things, we discussed cultural differences surrounding responsibility for others and how this may relate to questions of bystanders, upstanders, resistance, neutrality and cooperation. The conversation brought us to one big conclusion:
Every decision matters. What happened in 1943 was the perfect storm of a million different decisions, likely made for reasons we’ll never fully understand – but every choice matters. This has always been the lesson Lauren intends to bring home to her students.
Scenes from the Day

















Past Posts
Back to Class
Lauren is back in the classroom – sharing Denmark’s rescue story with her students.
The Mystic Seaport – Preserving the Gerda III while Showcasing Her Amazing Story
Lauren here. This is my first post. Melanie was in charge of the blog while we were traveling together, and I am so thankful to her for all the work she put into it. This blog…
Random Reflections
Some thoughts from the long trip home.
On Course
All roads led here, and it’s where we hoped to go.
“Second to None”
A story very few people knew until recently.
Right Place, Right Time
Being in the right place at the right time led to a perfect, personal story.
It’s Different Here (in Aarhus)
Aarhus through a historian’s eyes
Miles and The Extra Mile
Today we started our 2-day ride from Gilleleje to Aarhus. But first we took one more spin around Gilleleje. We set out to find the rest of the city’s plaques, but we found much more. Yesterday…
It’s Complicated
Collecting stories, memories, objects…and many many layers.
Reaching the Heart
For the last fifty miles, people have told us to go to Gilleje for the story…and now we’re here!
Talking to Strangers
Talk to strangers. The stranger, the better!
Make it Personal
Because stories are what make us care.
Context
Today was our first real day of study-tourism, and we started with some background. Jewish context We began the day at the Danish Jewish Museum. I’ve been admiring Danish architecture since we got here, and this…
First Impressions
They say you only have one chance to make a first impression, and Copenhagen does not disappoint. It’s beautiful here! Even the SAS plane was gorgeous, flight attendants in crisp uniforms with pillbox hats throughout an…
Worrying, Waiting and Wondering
Things were going too smoothly…
Packed
Or, how to bike for two weeks with three pairs of socks.
Better Together
The part of this trip I’m looking forward to the most is traveling with an old friend.
The Big Question
The millions of questions swirling in our brains all support one big question.
Testing Travel Tech
This might be a disaster, but it’s only a test and better to know now!
Training Wheels
I must really want to go to Denmark, because I don’t sweat on purpose, and I have a very low tolerance for pain.
We Have a Map!
Planning this trip has been surprisingly easy, geographically speaking.
The Backstory
Pedal to the Past? What is that, anyway? Who’s doing all this pedaling and where are they going?


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