Today we started chasing the story, literally. We rode about 32 miles from Copenhagen to Helsingor, weaving in and out of about a half dozen small harbor towns along the way. Most are beach destinations, with charming little shops and restaurants dotting historic wharfs. A few have historic markers memorializing the town’s role in the rescue effort.

But it’s easy to imagine these places in 1943. You can see Sweden across the narrow Oresund – from Helsingor, it’s only 2 miles away and a ferry runs all day. The homes and buildings are older, and as we rode and admired thatched roofs and views of the water I couldn’t help wondering which buildings may have been hiding places and who lived in the homes? Did they know? Could they see? Did they help? And who remembers?
These towns remember. We talked to everyone we met. Here, there is pride in this chapter of local history, and families are personally connected. Here are a few of the stories we heard:
The absolute best of today’s accidental interviews came at the end of the day. Lauren and I arrived in Helsingor, checked into our hotel and cleaned up a bit then went out for dinner. It doesn’t get dark until after 10pm here so it’s easy to forget how late it is…and it was getting late. But we decided to take a walk around town before going back to the hotel.
We met Peter, who struck up a conversation about the architecture of a very old church. He grew up in Denmark and now lives in Sweden. We got to talking and learned that his grandfather was a Resistance leader who established an underground newspaper and likely knew Henny of the Gerda III. Amazing stories, recorded in 4 parts – I hope you watch them all.
I really hope you made it through all of those. Walking around these harbors and towns I want to talk to everyone – I know nobody will ever hear all the stories or put them all together in a way that is complete or definitive – but we are really enjoying asking the questions.
And that is why we should talk to strangers!
Scenes of the day
























Past Posts
Back to Class
Lauren is back in the classroom – sharing Denmark’s rescue story with her students.
The Mystic Seaport – Preserving the Gerda III while Showcasing Her Amazing Story
Lauren here. This is my first post. Melanie was in charge of the blog while we were traveling together, and I am so thankful to her for all the work she put into it. This blog…
Random Reflections
Some thoughts from the long trip home.
On Course
All roads led here, and it’s where we hoped to go.
“Second to None”
A story very few people knew until recently.
Right Place, Right Time
Being in the right place at the right time led to a perfect, personal story.
It’s Different Here (in Aarhus)
Aarhus through a historian’s eyes
We Made it Through the Rain
We pedal faster when we’re cold and wet!
Miles and The Extra Mile
Today we started our 2-day ride from Gilleleje to Aarhus. But first we took one more spin around Gilleleje. We set out to find the rest of the city’s plaques, but we found much more. Yesterday…
It’s Complicated
Collecting stories, memories, objects…and many many layers.
Reaching the Heart
For the last fifty miles, people have told us to go to Gilleje for the story…and now we’re here!
Make it Personal
Because stories are what make us care.
Context
Today was our first real day of study-tourism, and we started with some background. Jewish context We began the day at the Danish Jewish Museum. I’ve been admiring Danish architecture since we got here, and this…
First Impressions
They say you only have one chance to make a first impression, and Copenhagen does not disappoint. It’s beautiful here! Even the SAS plane was gorgeous, flight attendants in crisp uniforms with pillbox hats throughout an…
Worrying, Waiting and Wondering
Things were going too smoothly…
Packed
Or, how to bike for two weeks with three pairs of socks.
Better Together
The part of this trip I’m looking forward to the most is traveling with an old friend.
The Big Question
The millions of questions swirling in our brains all support one big question.
Testing Travel Tech
This might be a disaster, but it’s only a test and better to know now!
Training Wheels
I must really want to go to Denmark, because I don’t sweat on purpose, and I have a very low tolerance for pain.
We Have a Map!
Planning this trip has been surprisingly easy, geographically speaking.
The Backstory
Pedal to the Past? What is that, anyway? Who’s doing all this pedaling and where are they going?


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